
New Orleans
SouthNew Orleans was founded by the French in 1718 at a strategic bend in the Mississippi River, passed to Spain, returned to France, and was sold to the United States in the 1803 Louisiana Purchase. This complex layering of colonial cultures, mixed with the African American community shaped by both slavery and freedom, produced a culture found nowhere else in America — its own cuisine, its own music (jazz was born here), its own architectural style (the ironwork balconies of the French Quarter), and its own holidays (Mardi Gras being the most spectacular). The city's resilience was tested by Hurricane Katrina in 2005 but New Orleans rebuilt and has emerged as one of America's most vibrant and visited cities.
Highlights
Must-Do Experiences
Experience Frenchmen Street Live Jazz
Skip the tourist trap bars of Bourbon Street (or at least supplement them) with a night on Frenchmen Street in the Marigny — three blocks of genuine jazz clubs, funk bars, and dance halls with live music every night of the week. The Spotted Cat, d.b.a., and Snug Harbor are the anchor venues. No cover at most bars; tip the musicians generously.
Eat Beignets at Café Du Monde
The French Market institution has served hot beignets (square French-style doughnuts buried under powdered sugar) and café au lait (chicory coffee with steamed milk) since 1862 — open 24 hours every day except Christmas. The powdered sugar will inevitably coat your clothes. Eat at the outdoor terrace tables overlooking Jackson Square for the full experience.
Explore the Garden District on Foot
Ride the historic St. Charles streetcar uptown and walk through the Garden District admiring the magnificent antebellum mansions, including Anne Rice's former home at 1239 First Street. Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 (above-ground tombs that inspired countless novels and films) is free and open for self-guided tours. Magazine Street offers excellent post-walk dining.
Take a Swamp Tour
The cypress swamps and bayous surrounding New Orleans are unlike anywhere else in North America — a primordial world of Spanish moss, herons, turtles, and alligators. Multiple operators run boat tours from dock areas outside the city. Airboat tours are more thrilling; slower pontoon boats allow closer wildlife observation. Best from spring through fall when alligators are active.
Best Time to Visit
February to April, October to December
spring
February-April: 60-80°F (15-27°C). Mardi Gras (February or March) is the city's biggest event — book years in advance for this week. Jazz Fest last weekend of April/first of May.
summer
May-August: 85-95°F (29-35°C), very humid. Hurricane risk June-November. Locals flee to the coast. Heavy afternoon thunderstorms. Not recommended.
autumn
September-November: 70-85°F (21-29°C). Hurricane risk decreases in October. Halloween is celebrated with particular enthusiasm. Excellent restaurant weather.
winter
December-January: 55-65°F (13-18°C). Mild. Christmas and New Year's are festive. Fewer tourists in January before Mardi Gras season builds.
Getting There
By Air
Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport (MSY) is 15 miles west of downtown. The Airline Highway connects to the city by taxi ($35-45), rideshare ($20-35), or the new Rampart-St. Claude streetcar extension. The airport opened a new terminal building in 2019.
By Train
New Orleans Union Passenger Terminal is served by three Amtrak routes: the City of New Orleans to Chicago (19 hours), the Crescent to New York (30 hours), and the Sunset Limited to Los Angeles (47 hours, runs 3 times weekly). The station is in the Warehouse District, walkable or a short taxi ride from the French Quarter.
By Bus
Greyhound and Megabus connect New Orleans to Houston (6 hours), Baton Rouge (1.5 hours), Memphis (7 hours), and other Southern cities. The bus terminal is downtown.
Budget Guide
Budget
$60-90/day
Mid-Range
$150-280/day
Luxury
$300-1000+/day
Neighborhoods
French Quarter (Vieux Carré)
The oldest neighborhood in New Orleans is the city's cultural and tourist heart — 80 blocks of 18th and 19th-century Creole architecture featuring the lacy ironwork balconies that have become the city's visual signature. Bourbon Street is the raucous entertainment spine; Royal Street is quieter and more elegant with antiques and galleries; Jackson Square with St. Louis Cathedral anchors the center. Café Du Monde serves beignets and café au lait 24 hours a day.
Garden District
Uptown from the French Quarter, the Garden District is where wealthy Americans (rather than Creoles) built their plantation-style antebellum mansions in the 1840s-1860s, surrounded by enormous live oaks, magnolias, and lush subtropical gardens. The neighborhood is the architectural counterpoint to the French Quarter. Magazine Street runs through the area with excellent restaurants, boutiques, and galleries.
Marigny & Bywater
Downriver from the French Quarter, the Faubourg Marigny and Bywater neighborhoods offer a more local, artsy alternative to the tourist French Quarter. Frenchmen Street in the Marigny has replaced Bourbon Street as the live jazz destination of choice for locals — multiple clubs with no cover, local musicians, and a genuine neighborhood atmosphere rather than a tourist trap.
Tremé
America's oldest continuously inhabited African American neighborhood and the birthplace of jazz — the Tremé (Trem-AY) produced Louis Armstrong and countless jazz legends. Louis Armstrong Park at Congo Square (where enslaved Africans were permitted to gather and play music on Sundays) marks the symbolic origin of jazz. The neighborhood's second-line parades continue the tradition.
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